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THE SMARTEST BLOG

Wiring Z-Wave Switches: Do’s and Don’ts

April 06, 2016 53 Comments

Get tip on how to troubleshoot and wire Z-Wave smart lighting switches and controls

Setting up my smart devices is usually fun, but I’ve always needed a bit more patience when it comes to wiring my Z-Wave switches. They include into your network like any Z-Wave device, but they also have different specifications. For example, unlike regular switches, your Z-Wave switches should be connected exactly as indicated in the manual and require a minimum load to function properly.

It’s worth mentioning, by the way, that after this initial set-up phase, my Z-Wave switches have made all the difference when it’s come to making my home more energy-efficient and convenient for me. That’s why I’ve compiled a short list of do’s and don’ts that will help you navigate and ease your Z-Wave switch installation process.

1. READ THE MANUAL, FOLLOW THE DIAGRAM

All Z-Wave lighting controls need to be wired exactly according to the user manual, with neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try. If you are not sure which one is load and which one is line, use a professional multimeter (your regular $10 multimeter will not be accurate enough) or better, consult a licensed electrician. Line and load are sometimes swapped in standard switch installations so it's best no to rely on original layout exclusively.

If you decide to hire an electrician to complete the installation, have them read the manual as well. We have found that professionals often approach Z-Wave equipment as if it was a simple electrical switch which may cause the device to malfunction. Remember to check for neutral connection in every gang box you plan to replace with a Z-Wave switch, especially if you live in an older house! 

2. CHECK FOR MINIMUM & MAXIMUM LOAD LIMITS

Most Z-Wave switches require at least 20 Watts on load and need to be connected to resistive load. So make sure there are no transformers along the way (common for low-voltage lighting), and preferable more than a couple of high-quality LED bulbs on the circuit. This is due to the TRIAC electronic component these devices are based on - it needs enough load to operate.

Don't forget that any motor loads like gas dryers will consume more power at start-up that mentioned in the specs. Always examine the specifications for each device carefully and compare it against the manual for your Z-Wave switch. Or ask The Smartest House support team!

3. MASTER THE 3-WAY 

3-way installation is different for Z-Wave switches than for regular electrical switches. When wiring two smart switches to control the same light, you have what we call a master switch which is connected to the load, line, neutral, traveler and ground and which also includes to your Z-Wave system. And then for additional manual control, you have the add-on switch which must NOT be powered up and connects to traveler, neutral, and ground only. That is the most popular configuration used by GE/Jasco for example.

If you have a set-up like that, you need to make sure none of the wires you connect to the add-on switch is hot, otherwise the switch may be damaged easily. The add-on does not include to the Z-Wave system but merely transmits any status changes to the master switch through electrical impulse communicated via the traveler wire.

Here is a great video from Jasco with a step-by-step guide on how to install a 3-way Z-Wave switch:

If you don't feel like spending extra money on the add-on switches, check out the Zooz product line. Their devices don't require dedicated auxiliary switches and you can just use your existing on/off 3-way switch in multi-point control set-ups. Just remember that you will only be able to manually dim from the master location and that you will still need a neutral wire at the main location.

I hope this has helped answer some questions you may have had about wiring your Z-Wave switches. Feel free to share your tips, questions, and experiences in the comment section below!



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10 Responses

Tim
Tim

September 11, 2023

Hi,

Is it possible to replace one 2 way switch with Z-Wave smart dimmer and leave other switch for just on/off function? How to wire that? Thank you,
—
Tim

Gordon gale
Gordon gale

February 01, 2023

I stumbled across this blog and am hoping someone can offer some insight into a problem I have. I have a Z-Wave switch controlling some LED-bulbed can lights over our mantle. On the same circuit. I have a Lutron DIVA switch controlling some LED strips in the coffered ceiling. (A DIVA type of switch is required to control the feed to the power supply used for the LED strip lights.) There are also 2 other regular switches in the 4-switch electrical box. There appears to be a conflict of some sort between the DIVA switch and the Z-Wave switch. Sometimes the Z-Wave controlled lights do not come on if the DIVA controlled LED lights are already on – but only sometimes. Other times I’ve had the DIVA controlled LED light strips “pulse” randomly after being left on for a while. When only one of the switches is in place (with the other being removed), everything operates as it should. But when both are in place, random problems creep in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Ramon
Ramon

February 01, 2023

Why are 4 can lights flashing when small square button push in on ZW 4005 switch?

The Smartest House
The Smartest House

May 26, 2019

Hi Matt! The GE switches work exactly the same as Honeywell switches. They’re the same devices manufactured by Jasco and just branded differently. So you’ll get the same exact functionality on both which means you’ll be able to dim manually from other locations as well.

Matt Bradley
Matt Bradley

May 24, 2019

Ok, question. I was looking at the Honeywell dimmable switches and their add on switches for a 3 or 4 way configuration. In the description of their add on switches, it indicates that you can control the “dimmable” feature of your lights from the add on switch, not just the dimmable master. For the GE Z-wave switches, I am looking to get the GE Z-Wave dimmer switch, and then get the add on switches for the other paddles that control the same lights. With the GE ones, can you control the brightness (i.e. dim/brighten) the lights from the add on switches too or just the master dimmer one? This is a big deal since you don’t want to remember which one is the “master” and have to go to only that one to manually dim, etc. the lights. Thanks

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

February 19, 2019

Hi Ken, if you’re having difficulty following instructions and aren’t sure about the wiring at any point, we recommend consulting a licensed electrician for your own safety. You can also get in touch with the support team from GE/Jasco to see if they’re able to assist you with the wiring details.

Ken
Ken

February 17, 2019

Thanks for all the help. I understand the line, load traveler wires and how to determine which is which thanks to the video. Problem is that every switch I look at is not this simple. The line part of the old dacor switch has two, three or four wires attached the single screw. With two the GE Zwave switch is easy- use the holes in the switch and tighten the screw. However if there are 3 or 4 wires there is no way to attach all three wires to one “post” . If if put a wire under the screw I cannot use the two back holes. I it legal and save to make a pigtail of a via a pig tail via a single wire out of the switch and the via wire nut put the two, or three other line wires together via wire nut within the box. I am worried about the hot line wire shorting or getting hot using this technique.

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

February 05, 2019

Thanks for sharing the solution John! We’re not familiar with NuTone switches but all Z-Wave switches we tested so far work pretty well with the ADT Pulse panel, not just GE/Jasco, but also Zooz, Qubino, or Fibaro.

John Lake
John Lake

February 02, 2019

ADT came out and looked at my problem; the installer had never seen anything like this. The only think he could suggest was a new switch and had me purchase a Jasco 45712 switch to replace one of the two switches in question. I could not solve the problem by replacing the Jasco ZW4005 switch, but when I replaced the Nutone switch things now work. It looks like the NuTone NWS 15Z is not compatible in my situation.

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

January 29, 2019

Hi John, it looks like an issue with ADT. Maybe they applied some kind of device limit on our subscription? It’s hard to say with alarm companies because they’re not very transparent when it comes to device integration. So we recommend getting in touch with ADT support, they should be able to solve this one for you.

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