April 06, 2016
Setting up my smart devices is usually fun, but I’ve always needed a bit more patience when it comes to wiring my Z-Wave switches. They include into your network like any Z-Wave device, but they also have different specifications. For example, unlike regular switches, your Z-Wave switches should be connected exactly as indicated in the manual and require a minimum load to function properly.
It’s worth mentioning, by the way, that after this initial set-up phase, my Z-Wave switches have made all the difference when it’s come to making my home more energy-efficient and convenient for me. That’s why I’ve compiled a short list of do’s and don’ts that will help you navigate and ease your Z-Wave switch installation process.
All Z-Wave lighting controls need to be wired exactly according to the user manual, with neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try. If you are not sure which one is load and which one is line, use a professional multimeter (your regular $10 multimeter will not be accurate enough) or better, consult a licensed electrician. Line and load are sometimes swapped in standard switch installations so it's best no to rely on original layout exclusively.
If you decide to hire an electrician to complete the installation, have them read the manual as well. We have found that professionals often approach Z-Wave equipment as if it was a simple electrical switch which may cause the device to malfunction. Remember to check for neutral connection in every gang box you plan to replace with a Z-Wave switch, especially if you live in an older house!
Most Z-Wave switches require at least 20 Watts on load and need to be connected to resistive load. So make sure there are no transformers along the way (common for low-voltage lighting), and preferable more than a couple of high-quality LED bulbs on the circuit. This is due to the TRIAC electronic component these devices are based on - it needs enough load to operate.
Don't forget that any motor loads like gas dryers will consume more power at start-up that mentioned in the specs. Always examine the specifications for each device carefully and compare it against the manual for your Z-Wave switch. Or ask The Smartest House support team!
3-way installation is different for Z-Wave switches than for regular electrical switches. When wiring two smart switches to control the same light, you have what we call a master switch which is connected to the load, line, neutral, traveler and ground and which also includes to your Z-Wave system. And then for additional manual control, you have the add-on switch which must NOT be powered up and connects to traveler, neutral, and ground only. That is the most popular configuration used by GE/Jasco for example.
If you have a set-up like that, you need to make sure none of the wires you connect to the add-on switch is hot, otherwise the switch may be damaged easily. The add-on does not include to the Z-Wave system but merely transmits any status changes to the master switch through electrical impulse communicated via the traveler wire.
Here is a great video from Jasco with a step-by-step guide on how to install a 3-way Z-Wave switch:
If you don't feel like spending extra money on the add-on switches, check out the Zooz product line. Their devices don't require dedicated auxiliary switches and you can just use your existing on/off 3-way switch in multi-point control set-ups. Just remember that you will only be able to manually dim from the master location and that you will still need a neutral wire at the main location.
I hope this has helped answer some questions you may have had about wiring your Z-Wave switches. Feel free to share your tips, questions, and experiences in the comment section below!
May 26, 2019
Hi Matt! The GE switches work exactly the same as Honeywell switches. They’re the same devices manufactured by Jasco and just branded differently. So you’ll get the same exact functionality on both which means you’ll be able to dim manually from other locations as well.
May 24, 2019
Ok, question. I was looking at the Honeywell dimmable switches and their add on switches for a 3 or 4 way configuration. In the description of their add on switches, it indicates that you can control the “dimmable” feature of your lights from the add on switch, not just the dimmable master. For the GE Z-wave switches, I am looking to get the GE Z-Wave dimmer switch, and then get the add on switches for the other paddles that control the same lights. With the GE ones, can you control the brightness (i.e. dim/brighten) the lights from the add on switches too or just the master dimmer one? This is a big deal since you don’t want to remember which one is the “master” and have to go to only that one to manually dim, etc. the lights. Thanks
February 19, 2019
Hi Ken, if you’re having difficulty following instructions and aren’t sure about the wiring at any point, we recommend consulting a licensed electrician for your own safety. You can also get in touch with the support team from GE/Jasco to see if they’re able to assist you with the wiring details.
February 17, 2019
Thanks for all the help. I understand the line, load traveler wires and how to determine which is which thanks to the video. Problem is that every switch I look at is not this simple. The line part of the old dacor switch has two, three or four wires attached the single screw. With two the GE Zwave switch is easy- use the holes in the switch and tighten the screw. However if there are 3 or 4 wires there is no way to attach all three wires to one “post” . If if put a wire under the screw I cannot use the two back holes. I it legal and save to make a pigtail of a via a pig tail via a single wire out of the switch and the via wire nut put the two, or three other line wires together via wire nut within the box. I am worried about the hot line wire shorting or getting hot using this technique.
February 05, 2019
Thanks for sharing the solution John! We’re not familiar with NuTone switches but all Z-Wave switches we tested so far work pretty well with the ADT Pulse panel, not just GE/Jasco, but also Zooz, Qubino, or Fibaro.
February 02, 2019
ADT came out and looked at my problem; the installer had never seen anything like this. The only think he could suggest was a new switch and had me purchase a Jasco 45712 switch to replace one of the two switches in question. I could not solve the problem by replacing the Jasco ZW4005 switch, but when I replaced the Nutone switch things now work. It looks like the NuTone NWS 15Z is not compatible in my situation.
January 29, 2019
Hi John, it looks like an issue with ADT. Maybe they applied some kind of device limit on our subscription? It’s hard to say with alarm companies because they’re not very transparent when it comes to device integration. So we recommend getting in touch with ADT support, they should be able to solve this one for you.
January 27, 2019
I have installed two z-wave switches (Jasco 21079-136 v 3.25 and Nortek Security & Control LLC model 21079-13619) on separate house circuits and my controller, ADT Pulse, cannot operate the switches independently. One at a time, either can be enrolled in the system and works fine. Either can be deleted to allow the other entry to the system and to function. However, if one is enrolled the system and the other is then entered without deleting the first, it cannot identify the second, noting that it is already installed and then both function simultaneously on their respective circuits to commands issued to the first enrolled. It seems like some sort of identification problem. Any idea how to solve this?
January 15, 2019
It sounds like you either have a bad dimmer or the line and load wires are swapped. We would need to know more details and see images of the wiring to say for sure so if you purchased the dimmer from our store, feel free to send those over and we’ll be happy to help you figure this out!
January 10, 2019
So i attempted to wire in a dimmer switch last night and was not able to get it to power up. The load wire is hooked up and and has power going to it. I hooked up to the neutral in the back of the gang box and the line is plugged in and i used the home ground wire. nothing is happening tho and i cant manually turn on or off the lights.
January 04, 2019
Hi PJB, sorry to hear about the problems you’ve been having with your switches! The bulbs may require a special type of dimmer so unfortunately there’s no workaround for incompatibility issues and we agree it’s a shame the switches are falsely advertised to work with all types of bulbs. If you send us the model number of your bulbs via email, we can order one to test with the Zooz ZEN27 dimmers which are known to work with more types of LED’s than most Z-Wave wall dimmers.
Just installed GE z-wave plus smart dimmer (SKU 14294) + companion GE (Jasco) add-on (3-way) and it functions correctly in all aspects except it won’t dim my lights (off/on only). I have 22 3.5W (77W total) CTC LEDs in 6 fixtures total that are all dimmable. GE/Jasco support tells me that only approved light bulbs are supported; the list they emailed is very limited and includes no E12 (candelabra) bulbs, even those made by GE! These smart switches are clearly marketed and labeled “Wirelessly schedule, control and adjust the brightness of ANY dimmable wall or ceiling light…for use with dimmable LED…full range dimmability…” Also chatted with Amazon tech support- no solution other than telling me that CTC LEDs are not supported? They did give me a slight credit on my purchase. Any help appreciated.
September 14, 2018
Good question. Unfortunately, as far as we know, none of the existing Z-Wave switches can be connected to another Z-Wave switch or dimmer. They either need a dedicated add-on or can be wired with a regular on/off switch (not a dimmer). Sorry we couldn’t be more helpful here!
What if I want to use two Zwave smart switches in a 3way config and NOT a add-on/companion switch. Can I not do that and then just add the non-load switch to an association to keep it in sync? I hate the idea of having the companion switch not have dimmer LEDs on it.
I want to be able to manually control and see the status of dim at both ends of the 3way.
July 10, 2018
Hi Peter, sorry for the late reply! You wouldn’t use a wall switch to trigger the receptacle here. Instead, you would mount a Z-Wave remote on the wall (like the Nodon Octan or Aeotec Wallmote) that would then trigger the Z-Wave plug in the receptacle via SmartThings. If you get in touch with our support, they’ll be able to guide you through the process step by step.
July 06, 2018
Thanks Jan. Want to make sure I understand – the Zwave receptacle wouldn’t be connected to the Zwave switch directly. I would use a hub (Smartthings) to turn on/off the Zwave receptacle. Eg. Zwave switch is clicked, it triggers an event on the hub which turns on the Zwave receptacle. My concern however is that the Zwave switch will have no direct load on it.
Is this the situation you are saying shouldn’t be done? Thanks for your help.
Hi Peter! Z-Wave switches are not recommended to be used to control wall-receptacles because if they’re wired this way, whatever is connected to that wall receptacle, becomes the load for the Z-Wave switch. And if that load is beyond the specifications of a given Z-Wave switch, for example if it’s a motor or a heavy-duty appliance, then the switch may be easily damaged. That’s why the best way to automate receptacle is through Z-Wave plugs (our Zooz ZEN15 or ZEN06 are popular models, you can also check out the Fibaro FGWPB-111 and FGWPB-121 for smaller form factor) and have a Z-Wave remote control mounted on the wall to control the plug if needed, so you get the same functionality as with a switch-controller receptacle. Hope it helps!
I currently have a switched receptacle controlled by a single-pole switch. What I want to do is replace the switch with a Zwave switch, and convert the switched receptacle back to an always-on receptacle. I want the Zwave switch to control a Zwave receptacle on another wall in the room. Based on your post though, it sounds like the Zwave switch won’t function as there will be no load on it. Are there Zwave switches designed to be operated with no load?
June 29, 2018
Good question Vincent! That depends on which model you have exactly. We don’t carry the GE products anymore so don’t have any experience with the Z-Wave Plus product line but one brand we know advertises support for electronic transformers is Fibaro with their Dimmer 2: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/fibaro-z-wave-plus-dimmer-2-fgd-212
June 28, 2018
Is there a specific transformer (digitally or magnetic) that will work without problems, if I am using a GE smartdimmer to feed LED lights???
May 25, 2018
It looks like this may be a configuration issue. The first thing to try if something isn’t working from the app is to exclude the switch, reset it, and add it back to the system to see if it helps.
Hi Ron, 5 ways (so 6 switches controlling 1 light) should still be OK for the GE switches. But with so many locations, there a few things that may go wrong. It’s best to get in touch with Jasco support for up-close troubleshooting.
May 24, 2018
What a great resource! My issue is: I’ve installed many z-wave switches in my house and most work perfectly. I put two new ones in yesterday and everything about them works perfectly except they won’t turn off via software. They work if you physically push the button, you can turn them on via an app and even dim them via an app, but they won’t turn off. The app (either Iris or Alexa) thinks the switch is off, but the light stays on. I’d suspect a bad switch but it’s happening to two different lights in different locations (each light has the same dimmable LEDS my other lights have). Any thoughts on that? Thank you!
May 21, 2018
I am unable to get my GE ZWave Smart Switch to work on my kitchen lights (I have 6 floods). The switch works using the same neutral line when plugged into a single light in the same box so I am confident neutral line isn’t the issue. Also works when using a standard switch. Have reconnected countless times to make sure no issues. I was able to successfully set up several other smart switches in my house. I have done in depth research with no luck. Only thing I can think of is, the switch won’t work given there are 6 lights together or incorrect house wiring (modern house build in the 90s). Any thoughts?
April 06, 2018
Hi Ronald, this is the air-gap switch which cuts power to the light when you’re changing the bulbs – it’s a safety feature that prevents shocks. You’ll see them in the Zooz dimmers as well.
April 02, 2018
What is the little horizontal switch under the toggle switch on the z wave 12729 dimmer?
February 04, 2018
Scott Bemis. In your description you say there should be 120V from load to ground. And 0 V from Line to ground. I believe you may be connecting those two cables incorrect as Line is 120V and load should be 0 volts.
January 25, 2018
This is for unsual results when wiring in GE/Jasco switches and also a Leviton Decora DZ15S on the same switch (same circuit); same gang box; single pole connection
After turning the circuit breaker on and off at the correct times, this what I have done.
With circuit live and all the wires (no switch)
Verify neutral (white wires) are neutral, 0 (zero) between neutral and ground (ground are the bare copper wires pigtailed)
Verified the load or hot, live circuit, 120 V between load and ground; 120 V between load and ground; 120 V between load and neutral
Verified the line is 0 (zero) volts between line and neutral, and line and ground
Checked for continuity between neutral and ground; there is continuity – neutral and ground are connected, hopefully back at the panel
Connected switches per the provided instructions
With the circuit off via the circuit breaker
Load/hot wire connected to load on switch (bk on the Leviton)
Line wire connected to line on switch (rd on the Leviton)
Neutral wire connected to Neutral on the switch (wh on the Leviton)
Ground wire connected to ground on the switch
With the Ge/Jasco switch, nothing happens, locator LED always remains off with even after multiple resets of the switch (led should blink on the switch for resets); switch cannot be found by Zwave controller after following the instructions for inclusion mode (press paddle up or down once)
With the Leviton, locator LED is on (set to default of on when there is no load) when the circuit is energized
Turn Leviton switch, light controlled by switch turned on for several seconds, in the meantime, the switch locator LED flashes amber, then it flashes red about 5 times, the light controlled by the switch goes off, and the switch locator LED turns on, indicating no load (which matches the light as it is off)
Is there something wrong with how neutral is connected back at the panel? Or something else? As a side note, I BRIEFLY connected the neutral on the switch to ground, and then the switch works. For anyone reading this, in general, please do NOT do this. Use the neutral wire for neutral on the switch. I BRIEFLY did this only for troubleshooting AND made sure I did not touch any grounded device (ex. a metal computer case) . I have removed the ground wire from neutral; I re-connected the neutral wire back to neutral on the switch.
- end -
January 09, 2018
Hi Monica! If you only have black,red, and white on each side it means there’s no direct connection to power line in any of the boxes so none of the smart switches we’ve seen so far would work. BUT if you have access to the light fixture, you can always install a Z-Wave module there to get the whole circuit automated. Feel free to get in touch with our support for more details.
January 06, 2018
There is no edit button. That last comment was supposed to say black wires, not black switches, but you probably already knew that.
I am trying to install 3 way & 4way switches, but I only have 1 black wire ( also 1 white, 1 red, and a ground) in all my switches. As you know, smart switches require line AND load. (2 black switches).
December 02, 2017
What an awesome resource you have here — I have been looking for a site just like this one. Thanks for the tips. My question is actually about a Leviton lamp (dimmer) MODULE (rather than an in-wall installation). In the past with the APPLIANCE modules, I have connected 3-pronged power strips so that I can turn on/off several devices at once, such as the AV centre at home. However with DIMMER modules, am I able to do something similar, for example with a 2-wired “tap” such as the following ones: (example 1: http://bit.ly/2klV64t) or (example 2: http://bit.ly/2AQfaD2) ??
Any advice would be super helpful. For the actual context: By using a tap like the ones in the above examples, I am hoping to plug in 2 lamps (each with dimmable LED bulbs) into the same z-wave module (a dimmer module), just to save money since each module is expensive. During December, I’d also like to plug the Christmas tree into an available socket on the tap. The LED string of Christmas lights has an AC adapter block as the wall plug, if that is helpful info.
Again any advice here in this community would be so super helpful. Thanks so much for putting this great blog and resource site together!
July 11, 2017
Hi Keith! You’ll need a Z-Wave light switch for every set of lights you want to control. So basically if you currently now have one switch per room controlling all the lights, you’ll need to replace each one with a Z-Wave switch. If you have 2 different switches per room controlling 2 different set of lights, you’ll need to replace both of them with Z-Wave light switches. But if you have 2 different wall switches controlling the same set of lights, you’ll need one Z-Wave switch only and then depending on the product you go with, you may need a companion add-on switch to replace the “slave” switch (controlling the same set of lights). Feel free to contact our support with more detailed questions!
July 09, 2017
I have a question about how many Smart Control switches vs Add On switches to use. I want to control lights in 4 different rooms, so am I correct that I need a Smart Control switch in each room? Thank you
May 04, 2017
I’m afraid that if you powered up the load terminal, the switch has been probably damaged already. The electronics in these devices are very sensitive so you need to be careful, especially when identifying load and line since they’re usually both black.
May 03, 2017
You say you must have “neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try”. If I accidentally switched the line and load did I damage the switch.
I have a dimmer switch I cannot seem to get working in multiple location and unsure if It’s broken or I’m clueless.
March 17, 2017
Qubino has a 0-10V Dimmer which seems should do the job for you: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/qubino-z-wave-plus-flush-dimmer-0-10v-zmnhvd3
Feel free to contact our support team for details!
March 16, 2017
I want to replace a Lutron Diva DVELV-300P low voltage dimmer with GE Z-wave dimmer. The Luton has a neutral, used to power the night light in the paddle. However, it sounds like the GE Z-wave may not work because of the need for a minimum load, which I’m not sure a transformer provides. Is there a z-wave alternative?
February 03, 2017
Hi Patty, there’s always a wire connecting the 2 switches if they control the same light. If you’re seeing 3 wires only, it’s possible that there is no neutral. Colors are not always the best indicator of which wire is which so in this case, we recommend hiring an electrician to identify the wiring in each box and compare it against the wiring diagrams in the Z-Wave switches.
February 01, 2017
What if there is no traveler wire? I have lights controlled by 2switches, but my house has no red wires. 2 black, 1white.
January 30, 2017
Thank you for sharing, very easy to follow along with.
January 27, 2017
If you don’t have a neutral, you can use Fibaro’s Dimmer just remember you’ll have to use incandescent bulbs and follow the diagram for 3-way carefully: http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/fibaro-z-wave-plus-dimmer-2-fgd-212
January 25, 2017
What is the solution if you don’t have neutral wires in your three way switches?
December 02, 2016
Thanks for the question! We’re not familiar with that particular product (we only deal with Z-Wave devices for now) but our understanding is that correct wiring is crucial to any electronic switch. It’s best to hire an electrician if you’re not sure how to identify the wiring in your switch box. From what you described though it seems like it may also be a range issue so it’s worth bench testing the device closer to your router to rule this out. Good luck!
Hi Brian, you can use the LTM-5 which can be a virtual control switch for any device in your SmartThings network: http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/wall-mount-accessory-switch-ltm-5
Good luck with the project!
November 25, 2016
This was an interesting article, and somewhat tied to my problem. I’m trying to install what I guess is a “z-wave switch” (or is that a brand name or something?) — it’s a TP-Link HS200 Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch. It just won’t work, and every 10 seconds or so the lights “blink” on and the switch itself clicks (simultaneously). (The signal meter never turns green, but stays yellow (amber) except for the “blink” times, when it goes off altogether.) When I called tech support, the acted like it was because there was only supposed to be one neutral (white) wire in the box, and I have 2, though they were already twisted and wire-nutted together. (Their own directions in their app show and describe two white (neutral) wires already in the box, but I think their tech folks don’t know that.) Can you help me with this?
November 20, 2016
I want to replace many of my switches with something that is seen as a button by my Z-wave controller, SmartThings. I just want power to flow permanently and use the button to send the on/off command. Is there anything that does this?
May 13, 2016
Hi Dale, that’s a good question! Do you mean installations without neutral and just hot and load wires present? Most, if not all, Z-Wave switches require a neutral wire. The older version of GE/Jasco dimmer switch (model number is 45612) did not require a neutral connection but due to growing demand for LED and low voltage bulb compatibility, their new model (12724), as well as all other Z-Wave switches, do require a neutral. The 45612 model has been discontinued for a while and is very difficult to come by no so I’m afraid we don’t have good news for you. Unfortunately, none of the Z-Wave switches we know of will function without neutral and ground.
May 12, 2016
What if you have an older home without ground wire? (2 wire 110 VAC).
May 11, 2016
Really enjoyed this article post.Really looking forward to read more. Will read on… Raudales
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August 06, 2020
If you already have Amazon Echo set up, you know how convenient it can be. There’s nothing like walking out the front door with full hands and telling Alexa to turn off your lights last minute. But these smart lights and plugs can be slow to react as you keep adding more smart home devices and clogging your network.
Alexa only “speaks” WiFi (and ZigBee if you have the EchoPlus). It currently doesn’t support Z-Wave, the protocol of choice for home automation thanks to its high speed and low interference with other connected devices in your home. That means you can’t have a Z-Wave switch or plug speak directly to your Echo. BUT you can use a smart home hub as a bridge between your Z-Wave devices and Amazon Alexa. Now that’s a whole other level of functionality to unlock!
And if you already have a Z-Wave hub but no smart speaker, you might be thinking how cool it would be to have voice control for your automations and smart home devices. It’s a step towards a more integrated, easy-to-use smart home with improved security, comfort, and convenience.
May 10, 2020
Starting May 13, 2020, Wink will be charging its users a $4.99 monthly subscription fee. If you don’t pay, you’ll lose your automations, smart rules, and access to voice control. [Update 5/30/20: Wink has since backed out of the decision, at least for now. Update 7/27/20: The subscription service for Wink is finally in effect.]So is it worth paying $5 a month for Wink’s service? The platform hasn’t been adding new features or expanding its list of supported devices for a while now. The announcement introducing the subscription model didn’t include any details on when and how the system would start updating again. They also failed to give users at least 30 days notice to consider how to move forward. If you’re thinking about switching to another platform, we can’t blame you. Here are a few alternatives for reliable smart home solutions that are most popular among our customers and the team here at The Smartest House. They’re all one-time investments without monthly fees. You’ll find a list of benefits and limitations with each platform, but if you have any questions about specific features we didn’t cover here, get in touch or post in the comment section below.
November 05, 2018
Winterizing your home used to mean lots of physical labor - caulking windows, installing heavier drapes, maybe even changing out older windows and doors that were too efficient at releasing insulated air. Winter prep can still mean all of the above, but new Z-Wave technology has made certain aspects of winterization easier while adding another level of protection as those temperatures drop.
Here’s what we’re using to stay cozy and make sure our energy bills don’t make us freeze in our tracks:
This is one of our winter must-haves. It’s the first Z-Wave line voltage thermostat in North America (but be careful, it won’t work with forced air systems!). Use it to control electric baseboards and convector heaters all from your Z-Wave hub’s app interface. Reduce your energy consumption by 30% with custom heating schedules, or just switch to the thermostat’s built-in Economy mode to keep things efficient.