April 06, 2016
Setting up my smart devices is usually fun, but I’ve always needed a bit more patience when it comes to wiring my Z-Wave switches. They include into your network like any Z-Wave device, but they also have different specifications. For example, unlike regular switches, your Z-Wave switches should be connected exactly as indicated in the manual and require a minimum load to function properly.
It’s worth mentioning, by the way, that after this initial set-up phase, my Z-Wave switches have made all the difference when it’s come to making my home more energy-efficient and convenient for me. That’s why I’ve compiled a short list of do’s and don’ts that will help you navigate and ease your Z-Wave switch installation process.
All Z-Wave lighting controls need to be wired exactly according to the user manual, with neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try. If you are not sure which one is load and which one is line, use a professional multimeter (your regular $10 multimeter will not be accurate enough) or better, consult a licensed electrician. Line and load are sometimes swapped in standard switch installations so it's best no to rely on original layout exclusively.
If you decide to hire an electrician to complete the installation, have them read the manual as well. We have found that professionals often approach Z-Wave equipment as if it was a simple electrical switch which may cause the device to malfunction. Remember to check for neutral connection in every gang box you plan to replace with a Z-Wave switch, especially if you live in an older house!
Most Z-Wave switches require at least 20 Watts on load and need to be connected to resistive load. So make sure there are no transformers along the way (common for low-voltage lighting), and preferable more than a couple of high-quality LED bulbs on the circuit. This is due to the TRIAC electronic component these devices are based on - it needs enough load to operate.
Don't forget that any motor loads like gas dryers will consume more power at start-up that mentioned in the specs. Always examine the specifications for each device carefully and compare it against the manual for your Z-Wave switch. Or ask The Smartest House support team!
3-way installation is different for Z-Wave switches than for regular electrical switches. When wiring two smart switches to control the same light, you have what we call a master switch which is connected to the load, line, neutral, traveler and ground and which also includes to your Z-Wave system. And then for additional manual control, you have the add-on switch which must NOT be powered up and connects to traveler, neutral, and ground only. That is the most popular configuration used by GE/Jasco or Zooz for example. I will go over different types of 3-way controls in a separate post soon.
If you have a set-up like that, you need to make sure none of the wires you connect to the add-on switch is hot, otherwise the switch may be damaged easily. The add-on does not include to the Z-Wave system but merely transmits any status changes to the master switch through electrical impulse communicated via the traveler wire.
Here is a great video from Jasco with a step-by-step guide on how to install a 3-way Z-Wave switch:
I hope this has helped answer some questions you may have had about wiring your Z-Wave switches. Feel free to share your tips, questions, and experiences in the comment section below!
March 17, 2017
Qubino has a 0-10V Dimmer which seems should do the job for you: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/qubino-z-wave-plus-flush-dimmer-0-10v-zmnhvd3
Feel free to contact our support team for details!
March 16, 2017
I want to replace a Lutron Diva DVELV-300P low voltage dimmer with GE Z-wave dimmer. The Luton has a neutral, used to power the night light in the paddle. However, it sounds like the GE Z-wave may not work because of the need for a minimum load, which I’m not sure a transformer provides. Is there a z-wave alternative?
February 03, 2017
Hi Patty, there’s always a wire connecting the 2 switches if they control the same light. If you’re seeing 3 wires only, it’s possible that there is no neutral. Colors are not always the best indicator of which wire is which so in this case, we recommend hiring an electrician to identify the wiring in each box and compare it against the wiring diagrams in the Z-Wave switches.
February 01, 2017
What if there is no traveler wire? I have lights controlled by 2switches, but my house has no red wires. 2 black, 1white.
January 30, 2017
Thank you for sharing, very easy to follow along with.
January 27, 2017
If you don’t have a neutral, you can use Fibaro’s Dimmer just remember you’ll have to use incandescent bulbs and follow the diagram for 3-way carefully: http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/fibaro-z-wave-plus-dimmer-2-fgd-212
January 25, 2017
What is the solution if you don’t have neutral wires in your three way switches?
December 02, 2016
Thanks for the question! We’re not familiar with that particular product (we only deal with Z-Wave devices for now) but our understanding is that correct wiring is crucial to any electronic switch. It’s best to hire an electrician if you’re not sure how to identify the wiring in your switch box. From what you described though it seems like it may also be a range issue so it’s worth bench testing the device closer to your router to rule this out. Good luck!
Hi Brian, you can use the LTM-5 which can be a virtual control switch for any device in your SmartThings network: http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/wall-mount-accessory-switch-ltm-5
Good luck with the project!
November 25, 2016
This was an interesting article, and somewhat tied to my problem. I’m trying to install what I guess is a “z-wave switch” (or is that a brand name or something?) — it’s a TP-Link HS200 Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch. It just won’t work, and every 10 seconds or so the lights “blink” on and the switch itself clicks (simultaneously). (The signal meter never turns green, but stays yellow (amber) except for the “blink” times, when it goes off altogether.) When I called tech support, the acted like it was because there was only supposed to be one neutral (white) wire in the box, and I have 2, though they were already twisted and wire-nutted together. (Their own directions in their app show and describe two white (neutral) wires already in the box, but I think their tech folks don’t know that.) Can you help me with this?
November 20, 2016
I want to replace many of my switches with something that is seen as a button by my Z-wave controller, SmartThings. I just want power to flow permanently and use the button to send the on/off command. Is there anything that does this?
May 13, 2016
Hi Dale, that’s a good question! Do you mean installations without neutral and just hot and load wires present? Most, if not all, Z-Wave switches require a neutral wire. The older version of GE/Jasco dimmer switch (model number is 45612) did not require a neutral connection but due to growing demand for LED and low voltage bulb compatibility, their new model (12724), as well as all other Z-Wave switches, do require a neutral. The 45612 model has been discontinued for a while and is very difficult to come by no so I’m afraid we don’t have good news for you. Unfortunately, none of the Z-Wave switches we know of will function without neutral and ground.
May 12, 2016
What if you have an older home without ground wire? (2 wire 110 VAC).
May 11, 2016
Really enjoyed this article post.Really looking forward to read more. Will read on… Raudales
March 14, 2017
We get a lot of inquiries from Wink users trying to connect Z-Wave devices which should "technically" work with their hub but are not listed on the device list in the Wink hub.
You can include most on/off Z-Wave products to Wink and Wink 2, including light switches, plug-in modules, dimmers, and even multi-channel devices such as our popular Zooz Power Strip which allows you to control 5 outlets individually.
Since Wink's support is not very obvious on how to include these "generic" Z-Wave devices to your network, we created this step-by-step guide with easy-to-follow instructions and screenshots to make everything super clear.
We hope it helps you enjoy your Z-Wave system even more!
September 14, 2016
The Fibaro Dimmer 2 has been available in Europe for quite some time and listed on the Fibaro US website as “coming soon” for too many months to count. Fibaro has made several of their Z-Wave devices available in the states (RGBW controller, Motion sensor, Flood sensor, etc.) and all of them have generally been well received. The company really does set a high standard for quality home automation devices. So, with that being said, does the Dimmer 2 live up to the Fibaro name and was it worth the wait? Read on to find out if this device stands out in the crowded IoT market.
The size of the Dimmer 2 quite a bit smaller than the Aeon Labs Micro Dimmer (the competing US in wall dimmer). This will make it a little easier to fit into your switch box. One thing that sets this device apart is that it has two switch ports (labeled S1 & S2). There are a couple different uses for the second switch port, so it is a great addition to have. Read more
July 15, 2016
For those of us interested in home automation, this might be a familiar scenario: You’ve bought that new 4-in-1 sensor you’ve wanted for a while, and rush to unwrap the package like a kid on Christmas Day. Then you insert the batteries and make your way to your SmartThings hub to include it into your network. And then the disappoint descends: it’s a sensor that’s new on the market, and it’s more complicated than a simple on/off device. It will probably take a while before SmartThings provides official support for it. So how do you include a Z-Wave device to your hub if it's not on the list?
This is where custom device handlers come in: community members will often develop their own code to be able to use new devices with SmartThings. They usually publish them on development platforms like GitHub and then post a link to the code on the SmartThings forum. But they don’t always include instructions on how to install the custom device handler and assign it to the device. The average user may think it’s a complicated process, when in fact it’s quite simple! Read more