Setting up my smart devices is usually fun, but I’ve always needed a bit more patience when it comes to wiring my Z-Wave switches. They include into your network like any Z-Wave device, but they also have different specifications. For example, unlike regular switches, your Z-Wave switches should be connected exactly as indicated in the manual and require a minimum load to function properly.
It’s worth mentioning, by the way, that after this initial set-up phase, my Z-Wave switches have made all the difference when it’s come to making my home more energy-efficient and convenient for me. That’s why I’ve compiled a short list of do’s and don’ts that will help you navigate and ease your Z-Wave switch installation process.
All Z-Wave lighting controls need to be wired exactly according to the user manual, with neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try. If you are not sure which one is load and which one is line, use a professional multimeter (your regular $10 multimeter will not be accurate enough) or better, consult a licensed electrician. Line and load are sometimes swapped in standard switch installations so it's best no to rely on original layout exclusively.
If you decide to hire an electrician to complete the installation, have them read the manual as well. We have found that professionals often approach Z-Wave equipment as if it was a simple electrical switch which may cause the device to malfunction. Remember to check for neutral connection in every gang box you plan to replace with a Z-Wave switch, especially if you live in an older house!
Most Z-Wave switches require at least 20 Watts on load and need to be connected to resistive load. So make sure there are no transformers along the way (common for low-voltage lighting), and preferable more than a couple of high-quality LED bulbs on the circuit. This is due to the TRIAC electronic component these devices are based on - it needs enough load to operate.
Don't forget that any motor loads like gas dryers will consume more power at start-up that mentioned in the specs. Always examine the specifications for each device carefully and compare it against the manual for your Z-Wave switch. Or ask The Smartest House support team!
3-way installation is different for Z-Wave switches than for regular electrical switches. When wiring two smart switches to control the same light, you have what we call a master switch which is connected to the load, line, neutral, traveler and ground and which also includes to your Z-Wave system. And then for additional manual control, you have the add-on switch which must NOT be powered up and connects to traveler, neutral, and ground only. That is the most popular configuration used by GE/Jasco for example.
If you have a set-up like that, you need to make sure none of the wires you connect to the add-on switch is hot, otherwise the switch may be damaged easily. The add-on does not include to the Z-Wave system but merely transmits any status changes to the master switch through electrical impulse communicated via the traveler wire.
Here is a great video from Jasco with a step-by-step guide on how to install a 3-way Z-Wave switch:
If you don't feel like spending extra money on the add-on switches, check out the Zooz product line. Their devices don't require dedicated auxiliary switches and you can just use your existing on/off 3-way switch in multi-point control set-ups. Just remember that you will only be able to manually dim from the master location and that you will still need a neutral wire at the main location.
I hope this has helped answer some questions you may have had about wiring your Z-Wave switches. Feel free to share your tips, questions, and experiences in the comment section below!
Smart home tech isn’t just for indoors anymore—it’s transforming yard care too. While we’re used to voice assistants and smart thermostats, outdoor tools like sprinkler systems are catching up. Instead of wasting water on rigid schedules, smart systems adapt to the weather, skip rainy days, and keep your lawn healthy with minimal effort.
Smart sprinkler control makes it easy to upgrade your existing irrigation system with a device like the Zooz ZEN17 Universal Relay. Compatible with SmartThings, Hubitat, Z-Box, Home Assistant, and HomeSeer, it fits into most smart home setups without locking you into one platform. This post covers the benefits of automating your sprinklers, how to set up the ZEN17, control options, and real user tips to help you get the most from your system.
Imagine this: it’s a stuffy summer night, and you’re already in bed when you realize the ceiling fan is off. Or maybe you’ve left the house and can’t remember if the bathroom fan is still running. What if your fan could turn on automatically when the room gets too warm—or shut off when no one’s around?
That’s the beauty of smart fan control. It’s not just about convenience (though turning your fan on with your voice or a tap on a smart remote is pretty great). It’s about making your home more energy-efficient, more responsive, and just... smarter.
Home Assistant is slowly but surely becoming the ultimate platform for comprehensive home automation. It allows users to create a truly customized and connected environment with the most integrations we've ever seen. Home Assistant has a pretty powerful automation engine too so you can program anything from simple lighting control to complex, multi-device routines. And it's open source which means we can all contribute and the basic software is free.
The secret to making your Home Assistant set-up better than ever? Add Z-Wave to it! You can instantly increase the functionality, reliability, and device compatibility of your smart home environment. Z-Wave brings a vast range of new device options that can communicate securely and consistently. They are feature rich with tons of advanced settings to choose from so you can find a good match for any use case.
Scott Bemis
January 25, 2018
This is for unsual results when wiring in GE/Jasco switches and also a Leviton Decora DZ15S on the same switch (same circuit); same gang box; single pole connection
After turning the circuit breaker on and off at the correct times, this what I have done.
With circuit live and all the wires (no switch)
Verify neutral (white wires) are neutral, 0 (zero) between neutral and ground (ground are the bare copper wires pigtailed)
Verified the load or hot, live circuit, 120 V between load and ground; 120 V between load and ground; 120 V between load and neutral
Verified the line is 0 (zero) volts between line and neutral, and line and ground
Checked for continuity between neutral and ground; there is continuity – neutral and ground are connected, hopefully back at the panel
Connected switches per the provided instructions
With the circuit off via the circuit breaker
Load/hot wire connected to load on switch (bk on the Leviton)
Line wire connected to line on switch (rd on the Leviton)
Neutral wire connected to Neutral on the switch (wh on the Leviton)
Ground wire connected to ground on the switch
Energize circuit
With the Ge/Jasco switch, nothing happens, locator LED always remains off with even after multiple resets of the switch (led should blink on the switch for resets); switch cannot be found by Zwave controller after following the instructions for inclusion mode (press paddle up or down once)
With the Leviton, locator LED is on (set to default of on when there is no load) when the circuit is energized
Turn Leviton switch, light controlled by switch turned on for several seconds, in the meantime, the switch locator LED flashes amber, then it flashes red about 5 times, the light controlled by the switch goes off, and the switch locator LED turns on, indicating no load (which matches the light as it is off)
Is there something wrong with how neutral is connected back at the panel? Or something else? As a side note, I BRIEFLY connected the neutral on the switch to ground, and then the switch works. For anyone reading this, in general, please do NOT do this. Use the neutral wire for neutral on the switch. I BRIEFLY did this only for troubleshooting AND made sure I did not touch any grounded device (ex. a metal computer case) . I have removed the ground wire from neutral; I re-connected the neutral wire back to neutral on the switch.
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