As much as we love Aeon Labs micro switches, they can be a pain to install. Here are the 3 key ingredients for a quick and easy set-up of the switches:
Like with any Z-Wave switch, you will need a neutral connection in each gang box to properly install the micros. Speaking of wiring, if you are looking to install the on/off micro switches in a 3-way setting, use the diagram below (anything else you find in the manuals or online will bring you nothing but trouble).
You will need both line and load in the master gang box for the 3-way installation to be successful.
Last but not least, here are a few useful programming adjustments to get the most functionality out of your Aeon Labs micro switches:
- Parameter 120 = 1 set as default for on/off toggle mode OR 0 for momentary switch
- Parameter 3 = 1 for overload protection
- Parameter 80 = 1 to report status change - controller immediately shows status change if you turn the switch on or off manually
Did I miss anything? Let me know in the comments below!
Hi Brent, good question! Just like with any Z-Wave switch, it can be associated with other devices in your network and can be controlled with a virtual add-on switch like the LTM-5 or a Z-Wave scene controller. So you can hide the relays behind a dry wall and decide where and how you want to add local control for them with Z-Wave scene controllers.
Do you have to connect these to a traditional switch or can you have them controlled by scene controllers / other zwave devices?
Hi David, even though Aeotec publishes the live diagrams as an option, we don’t recommend implementing them because in the long run it may damage the switches anyway. If you’re having issues with reliable control, we would try disconnecting the module from the 3-way and see if you can control it from SmartThings as a single-pole to see if the wiring plays a part here.
This was really helpful, I have wired mine up slightly differently (using a 3 way live implementation but it all works except for the fact that i cant seem to reliably turn it off from smartthings. thoughts on what might be the cause?
Hi Ann! The Vision dual relay can be connected in a 3-way without live wiring just as shown in the Aeotec diagram. So the most important thing to check for is that you have neutral, ground, line, load, and traveler all in one box. We have a dedicated wiring diagram for the Vision module so feel free to email us about it!
I have a quick question: can I hook up one of your dual relay to control a 3-way switch?
Hi Todd,
Thanks for the question! Dimmers will not work in a 3-way configuration because they are based on the push-button mechanism. So even if you replaced regular switches with momentary, you would still not be able to use a dimmer in this configuration.
We recommend replacing your traditional switches with Z-Wave in-wall dimmers to execute a 3-way configuration. We write more about the process here:
http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/blogs/the-smartest-blog/114982596-wiring-z-wave-switches-do-s-and-don-ts
Let me know if that was helpful!
Does the 3/4-way wiring differ for the dimmer modules? Specifically, would I connect load and line to the dimmer module and then use momentary switches in place of the toggle switches in the diagram above? Have you or anyone else got that working? Thanks in advance!
Hi Matthew, each hub has a different home automation software with a unique way to adjust settings for each device. Some controllers do not allow users to change parameters within the interface so if you are not seeing the option to adjust parameters in device settings, we recommend contacting Harmony’s support for more info on how to address the issue. Sorry we could not be of more help here!
Parameters? How do I set these parameters? I noticed that my Harmony Home Hub Extender doesn’t seem to recognize state changes when I flip a wall switch manually. It looks like parameter 80 might be the key to this.
Thanks for tip #1. I was going out of my mind.
Andrew, thanks for the question. If you only have one bulb per switch, we would not recommend using the micro switch with an 8W bulb. You would be better off replacing the in-wall switch with one of the newer GE switches which all work well with low-voltage lights:
http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/search?type=product&q=ge+switch
The micros may work well for a while but there is a good chance they will eventually fail under an 8W load. I hope that helps!
Does the 20W requirement apply to all of these? I run all LEDs (non dimmable) that are around 8W. Would any of the models here work? I am not interested in dimming, just on/off.
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If you already have Amazon Echo set up, you know how convenient it can be. There’s nothing like walking out the front door with full hands and telling Alexa to turn off your lights last minute. But these smart lights and plugs can be slow to react as you keep adding more smart home devices and clogging your network.
Alexa only “speaks” WiFi (and ZigBee if you have the EchoPlus). It currently doesn’t support Z-Wave, the protocol of choice for home automation thanks to its high speed and low interference with other connected devices in your home. That means you can’t have a Z-Wave switch or plug speak directly to your Echo. BUT you can use a smart home hub as a bridge between your Z-Wave devices and Amazon Alexa. Now that’s a whole other level of functionality to unlock!
And if you already have a Z-Wave hub but no smart speaker, you might be thinking how cool it would be to have voice control for your automations and smart home devices. It’s a step towards a more integrated, easy-to-use smart home with improved security, comfort, and convenience.
Starting May 13, 2020, Wink will be charging its users a $4.99 monthly subscription fee. If you don’t pay, you’ll lose your automations, smart rules, and access to voice control. [Update 5/30/20: Wink has since backed out of the decision, at least for now. Update 7/27/20: The subscription service for Wink is finally in effect.]
So is it worth paying $5 a month for Wink’s service? The platform hasn’t been adding new features or expanding its list of supported devices for a while now. The announcement introducing the subscription model didn’t include any details on when and how the system would start updating again. They also failed to give users at least 30 days notice to consider how to move forward. If you’re thinking about switching to another platform, we can’t blame you.
Here are a few alternatives for reliable smart home solutions that are most popular among our customers and the team here at The Smartest House. They’re all one-time investments without monthly fees. You’ll find a list of benefits and limitations with each platform, but if you have any questions about specific features we didn’t cover here, get in touch or post in the comment section below.
Winterizing your home used to mean lots of physical labor - caulking windows, installing heavier drapes, maybe even changing out older windows and doors that were too efficient at releasing insulated air. Winter prep can still mean all of the above, but new Z-Wave technology has made certain aspects of winterization easier while adding another level of protection as those temperatures drop.
Here’s what we’re using to stay cozy and make sure our energy bills don’t make us freeze in our tracks:
This is one of our winter must-haves. It’s the first Z-Wave line voltage thermostat in North America (but be careful, it won’t work with forced air systems!). Use it to control electric baseboards and convector heaters all from your Z-Wave hub’s app interface. Reduce your energy consumption by 30% with custom heating schedules, or just switch to the thermostat’s built-in Economy mode to keep things efficient.
Ron
May 03, 2019
What is the overload protection! Can it be reset? How?