Posted on July 30, 2015 by Jan Zubko | 7 comments

As much as we love Aeon Labs micro switches, they can be a pain to install. Here are the 3 key ingredients for a quick and easy set-up of the switches:

  1. Before inserting the wire, screw the screw in a little or so it catches the thread. If you insert the wire first, the screw will probably miss the thread and get loose. It will feel as if the thread is stripped.
  2. Make sure you have the right type of load connected to the micro switch: NO transformers, at least 20W bulbs or circuits, high-quality dimmable LEDs for the DSC27103 and DSC19103.
  3. Match the in-wall switch with your micro switch correctly - regular on/off switch for DSC26103 and DSC18103 and momentary switch for DSC27103 and DSC19103 (no dimmers!).

Like with any Z-Wave switch, you will need a neutral connection in each gang box to properly install the micros. Speaking of wiring, if you are looking to install the on/off micro switches in a 3-way setting, use the diagram below (anything else you find in the manuals or online will bring you nothing but trouble).
You will need both line and load in the master gang box for the 3-way installation to be successful.

Last but not least, here are a few useful programming adjustments to get the most functionality out of your Aeon Labs micro switches:

- Parameter 120 = 1 set as default for on/off toggle mode OR 0 for momentary switch
- Parameter 3 = 1 for overload protection
- Parameter 80 = 1 to report status change - controller immediately shows status change if you turn the switch on or off manually

Did I miss anything? Let me know in the comments below!

Posted in Aeon Labs, Aeotec, Smart Home, Tips, Troubleshooting, Z-Wave



7 Responses

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

May 27, 2016

Hi Todd,
Thanks for the question! Dimmers will not work in a 3-way configuration because they are based on the push-button mechanism. So even if you replaced regular switches with momentary, you would still not be able to use a dimmer in this configuration.
We recommend replacing your traditional switches with Z-Wave in-wall dimmers to execute a 3-way configuration. We write more about the process here:

Let me know if that was helpful!

Todd Kennedy
Todd Kennedy

May 24, 2016

Does the 3/4-way wiring differ for the dimmer modules? Specifically, would I connect load and line to the dimmer module and then use momentary switches in place of the toggle switches in the diagram above? Have you or anyone else got that working? Thanks in advance!

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

February 17, 2016

Hi Matthew, each hub has a different home automation software with a unique way to adjust settings for each device. Some controllers do not allow users to change parameters within the interface so if you are not seeing the option to adjust parameters in device settings, we recommend contacting Harmony’s support for more info on how to address the issue. Sorry we could not be of more help here!


February 04, 2016

Parameters? How do I set these parameters? I noticed that my Harmony Home Hub Extender doesn’t seem to recognize state changes when I flip a wall switch manually. It looks like parameter 80 might be the key to this.


December 28, 2015

Thanks for tip #1. I was going out of my mind.

Jan (The Smartest House)
Jan (The Smartest House)

October 01, 2015

Andrew, thanks for the question. If you only have one bulb per switch, we would not recommend using the micro switch with an 8W bulb. You would be better off replacing the in-wall switch with one of the newer GE switches which all work well with low-voltage lights:


The micros may work well for a while but there is a good chance they will eventually fail under an 8W load. I hope that helps!


September 30, 2015

Does the 20W requirement apply to all of these? I run all LEDs (non dimmable) that are around 8W. Would any of the models here work? I am not interested in dimming, just on/off.

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